Repair guide
Draughty Windows: The Fixes That Actually Work
A draughty window rarely needs replacing. In almost every case the frame and glass are fine and one of a small number of cheap components has given up.
Exposed properties across the North East feel this most, particularly after a spell of bad weather, and the repairs are among the least expensive we carry out.
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Repair first
Replacement only when a repair is not possible
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In person, with photo estimates sometimes possible
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Find the draught first
- Run the back of your hand slowly around the closed sash to find the cold line
- Look for gaskets that have gone hard, shiny, flattened or have shrunk back at the corners
- Check whether the sash sits evenly in the frame or gaps at one edge
- Listen for whistling in high wind, which usually means compression has been lost
- Check the trickle vents are working as intended rather than jammed open
The usual causes
Perished rubber gaskets are the most common. Rubber hardens with age and ultraviolet exposure, stops springing back and no longer forms a seal when the window closes.
The second cause is lost compression. Worn hinges and keeps let the sash sit slightly proud of the frame, so even a good gasket is not being squeezed. Adjusting the keeps and replacing tired hinges pulls the sash back in.
Third is water and air getting past the beading or through blocked frame drainage, which often shows as damp on the internal cill as well as a cold draught.
What we do about it
- Renew perished gaskets and weather seals throughout the window
- Reset keeps and adjust compression so the sash closes tight
- Replace worn friction stays that are letting the sash drop
- Re-seat glazing beads and clear frame drainage channels
- Renew external frame sealant where it has cracked away
What not to do
Avoid sealing trickle vents shut or taping windows closed. Blocking the ventilation traps moisture indoors and moves the problem to condensation, damp and mould. The right approach is to stop the uncontrolled draughts and keep the controlled ventilation working.
Guidance on cost
Typical price ranges
The ranges below are guidance only, based on the sort of repairs we carry out across the North East. Prices vary with size, specification, access and the condition of the frame, so we confirm the price after inspecting the fault. In-person quotations are free.
| Work | Typical range |
|---|---|
| Gasket and weather seal renewal per windowCheaper per window when several are done together | around £50 to £110 |
| Compression adjustment and keep resetOften combined with seal renewal on the same visit | around £60 to £100 |
| Friction stay replacementNeeded where the sash has dropped | around £60 to £130 per pair fitted |
| External frame resealingDepends on run length and access | quoted per window |
Related repairs
Services covered in this guide
Where we carry out this work
Questions
Frequently asked
Why is my window draughty when the glass and frame look fine?
Usually the rubber gaskets have hardened, or worn hinges have left the sash sitting slightly proud so the seal is no longer being compressed.
Can gaskets be replaced without taking the window out?
Yes. Seals and gaskets are renewed in place, and the sash is adjusted at the same visit.
Should I block up the trickle vents to stop the draught?
No. Sealing ventilation traps moisture indoors and leads to condensation and mould. Fix the uncontrolled draughts instead.
Will draught proofing make a cold room noticeably warmer?
It usually makes a clear difference, and it is one of the cheapest repairs we carry out on exposed properties.
Need it sorted today?
Tell us what the window or door is doing and we will arrange a free in-person quotation. Clear photographs can sometimes help us estimate sooner.